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Spring-Summer '08 : Opening a Cheese Store | The artisanal cheese market is growing faster than ever in the U.S., spurred in part by a growing number of dedicated retailers. Whereas decades ago, specialty cheese stores were few and far between, today they can be found in cities and towns across the nation, offering customers quality ingredients and first-rate service. But opening a cheese store is no easy feat. Here are a few tips from friends in the business : Location, location, location
“Location is the most important criteria; it will come with the right audience,” says Ihsan Gurdal, owner of Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, MA. Formaggio Kitchen opened in 1978, in response to a community demand for a store with a European style of service and quality products. Gurdal has expanded the store’s vision over the years to meet changing trends, as well as to accommodate his own passions for artisanal cheeses and products that support sustainable agriculture. Cross-merchandising—offering complementary items such as cheese accompaniments (chutneys, crackers, honey, etc.), kitchenware (serving boards, knives, etc.), and/or wine (if possible in your area)—can also lure customers and boost sales. Choosing the right location—and the right merchandise—is the first step to ensuring long-term success. Passion
“Of course, location is key, but ultimately one needs to do what one loves to be successful,” notes Kent Torrey, owner of the Cheese Shop of Carmel and the recently opened Cheese Shop of Santa Barbara. “Buy products you like—why would you want to sell something you don’t feel good about?” New retailers can expect to work long, hard hours, but with dedication and passion, the work will eventually pay off. As Torrey states, “You may not make a ton of money, but you can certainly eat and drink like you do!” Quality and content over size
Less is sometimes more when it comes to opening a new cheese store. While a huge selection is never necessary, maintaining high quality control is imperative for retaining a loyal customer base and for attracting new customers. Jason Hinds of Neal’s Yard Dairy in London offers these tips for maximizing quality:
• Buy just what you can sell within 2-4 weeks and sell out.
• Store cheeses in waxed or butcher paper at 45˚F-55˚F. If stored in a walk-in, keep the cheese in the box and store away from fans.
• Don’t leave displayed cheese in direct sunlight or under vents.
• For highest quality control, sell cheeses cut-toorder. Taste the cheese before offering it to a customer.
• For pre-cut and wrapped cheese, cut little and often. Cut pieces should be 2-3 days old maximum when they’re sold. Same day is ideal. Don’t pre-cut small or thin pieces, otherwise the cheese may dry out and/or taste of plastic.
• If you are concerned about the quality of the cheese, contact your supplier immediately. Enthusiastic and informed staff
Personalized service and an in-depth knowledge of products sets apart many specialty cheese stores and creates a loyal following. It’s an “old fashioned way of doing business,” notes Torrey, which benefits both customer and retailer.
However, retaining a quality staff is “one of the biggest challenges one will face in the U.S.,” as states Gurdal. But this is “very slowly changing,” as the specialty cheese profession has grown and attracted higher numbers of skilled and motivated employees. It’s important to treat staff well, and, in return, to require a strong work ethic and a high level of professionalism.
In all, while opening a cheese store has its challenges, owners assert that it also comes with unforeseen rewards. We couldn’t be more thankful to those ardent retailers who have helped to pave the way for the growth of the artisanal cheese market in the US, and who have developed Comté’s presence nationwide along the way. | Top of the page p |
New Website and Brochure! | The Comté Cheese Association has developed a new website specifically for our U.S. trade partners!
Log-in at www.comte-usa.com to download POS materials; request supplies; learn the latest Comté news; and download images and videos. You’ll also find recipes, useful links, events, and more. We have also created an illustrated 16-page brochure that explores Comté from the pastures to the table. It is packed with information about the region and the making, aging and tasting of Comté, as well as with ideas for serving, tips for buying and storing, and statistics about Comté’s nutritional make-up. The brochure conveniently fits in a standard business envelope for easy transport and mailing, and will be helpful to both cheese professionals and consumers. | Top of the page p |
Cutting Comté Wheels |  Weighing in at approximately 80 lbs and stretching 3 feet in diameter, cutting a full wheel of Comté takes a bit of know-how. But with a few simple steps and the right tools, it’s easy to create manageable quarters and clean slices for selling. We met Daphne Zepos, owner of Essex Street Cheese Company, at the Bedford Cheese Shop in Brooklyn, where she demonstrated how to cut a Comté wheel. Remember to only cut what you need and to leave the remainder in large pieces, tightly wrapped; this will best preserve the flavor, texture and aromas of the cheese. Also, be sure to slice a taste for yourself!
> Download the PDF document there ! Special thanks to the Bedford Cheese Shop and Daphne Zepos. | Top of the page p |
Fall 07 : New AOC Regulations for Comté | The Comté dairy farmers, cheesemakers and affineurs have recently obtained new modifications from the INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité– the organization that oversees all controlled appellations of origin in France). The series of modifications will reinforce the rules of the Comté appellation and further preserve the traditions, terroir and artisanal nature of this unique cheese. The objectives of the new decrees are to:
• strengthen the connection to the terroir and preserve quality and authenticity,
• strengthen the extensive and artisanal nature of Comté production,
• encourage the existence of the greatest number of dairy farmers, fruitières (cheesemaking houses, or fromageries) and affineurs, whose diversity is integral to the success of the AOC. Comté was one of the first cheeses to be granted AOC status in 1958. The AOC status of Comté recognizes the intimate connection between Comté and its terroir, a connection that has been established by local people over centuries through a specific set of skills.
Every AOC product has its own set of regulations based on the product’s unique history, area of production and locally recognized practices. By definition, their production is limited. It can thus be said that Comté represents the culture, the landscapes, the history and the traditions of the people of the Jura Mountains.
The AOC system originated in 1935 with the creation of the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO), a government branch developed to administer and manage the AOC process for wines. The INAO’s responsibilities were later broadened to protect other artisanal and traditional products, such as cheese, poultry, etc. Since 1996, the European Union Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) system has also protected regional foods, wines and spirits on a European Level. There are currently 44 AOC cheeses in France – Gruyère has recently joined the AOC ranks – representing approximately 15% of total cheese production. Although they make up only a small percentage of the over 600 cheeses produced in France, AOC cheeses are the most sought after. A complete list of the 44 AOC cheeses can be found on the INAO’s website, http://www.inao.gouv.fr Modifications
1- The use of GMO’s is regarded as contrary to the Comté AOC and completely banned from all aspects production.
2- The size of cheese production facilities is limited to avoid concentration and to avoid the development of very large units contrary to local traditions and custom.
3- The artisanal nature and the traditions of Comté must be preserved in cheesemaking.
4- The area of milk supply for each fruitière cannot exceed 238 sq. miles (500 km2). In other words, a circle with a 17-mile diameter.
5- Other modifications aimed at supporting the pursuit of quality concern the feed of the cattle, the grazing pastures and the holding temperature of milk after milking. | Top of the page p |
Cheese Expert and Acclaimed Cooking Instructor, Molly Stevens |  Molly Stevens contributes regularly to publications such as Fine Cooking (where she is a Contributing Editor), Bon Appétit, Saveur and the Oregonian, and was awarded a James Beard award and an IACP award for her highly praised book, All About Braising. She was also awarded the IACP Cooking Teacher of the Year award in 2006.
When were you first introduced to Comté?
Growing up in Western New York, cheese meant either Cheddar or American slices. It wasn’t until I lived in France for a few years in the mid 1980’s that I discovered the wonders of true cheese. Comté was one of the many cheeses that I fell in love with during those years, and it remains a cheese I could eat every day. In 2005, some friends and I traveled to the Jura Mountains in the Franche-Comté region to learn more about Comté. We visited high-elevation dairy farms, saw the grazing Montbéliarde cows and visited a few fruitières where they make Comté. But the highlight of the trip was our tour of a 19th Century Fort, where some 65,000 enormous wheels of Comté are aging. This trip only increased my ardor for this excellent cheese. As a cookbook author, cooking instructor and chef, what are some of your favorite ways to serve Comté?
I tend to be a purist when it comes to good cheese, meaning I prefer to nibble it on its own in order to enjoy its buttery, complex flavor and dense, creamy texture. It also makes a great addition to a cheese plate, and I find that its slightly nutty, sweet character goes well with roasted nuts and/or fall fruit, such as apples and pears. Having said this, Comté also makes a fine cooking cheese. It melts extremely well and makes the quintessential fondue. I like to use it for gratins [see Molly’s delicious potato gratin recipe below] and baked dishes where I want a melty cheese component with a savory, almost nutty flavor. I also like to make some croutons with Comté melted on top to float on a bowl of winter soup. This year you were one of the judges for the Chefs’ Cheese Cook-Off at the annual conference of the American Cheese Society. Are there any trends that you have noticed in cheese consumption in America over the years?
People seem to be using a wider range of cheeses in the kitchen. As the variety and general quality of cheese improves, so do the ways we use it. For example, think of two iconic American comfort foods -- the grilled cheese sandwich and macaroni and cheese. Once upon a time, these standards were made primarily with yellow American cheese. Today, chefs and cooks everywhere are rethinking these dishes (and many more like them) to feature high-quality artisan cheeses. As for the future, I think we’ll see people choosing to spend more time in their kitchens. In my experience, it’s simply not true that Americans arent cooking anymore. I meet great home cooks everywhere I go. | Top of the page p |
Tips for the Trade: Comté POS Materials |  The Comté Cheese Association offers distributors and retailers a variety of materials to assist with a successful selling program. For more information, or to request materials, please email us at comte@carbonniercommunications.com.
• Apron: One-size-fits-all Comté apron for demos or general staff use.
• Aroma Wheel: 8 1/2 x 11-inch laminated handout illustrating the Comté “Wheel of Aromas,” or the 83 terms or descriptors that correspond to the most frequently found smells and aromas in Comté.
• Lapel Pins: 1-inch pins for customers or staff.
• Recipe booklet: 4 1/2 x 7-inch booklet featuring 5 recipes that use Comté and including general information about Comté production.
• Taste Comté Cheese: 8 1/2 x 8 1/2-inch book guiding readers through a Comté tasting using colorful illustrations and fun visuals. Limited availability.
• Toothpick Flags: 2 1/2-inch toothpicks with Comté flag for cheese demos, identification or tasting events.
• Newsletters: 8 1/2 x 11-inch newsletter published bi-yearly and running 4 pages in length, featuring news about Comté, general industry trends, interviews with Chefs and Cheese Experts, Comté recipes and information about production.
• Staff Training and Demos: Comté Cheese Association assists with staff training classes and demos on a case by case basis. > Comté Cheese Association provides you with everything you need for a successful selling program, including: recipe cards, counter-top displays, brochures, aprons, towels and more.
For free POP and In-store demonstration material, please contact Claudine Fox: cauguie@aol.com
Jean-Louis Carbonnier: comte@carbonniercommunications.com
Comté Cheese Association (212) 947-5655 | Top of the page p |
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